Eek it's been almost a month since I last posted (thank you to Papa Finnigan for pointing it out), much apologies. It's been a whirlwind few weeks round Asia and there hasn't been much time for blogging! I'll do my best to keep it interesting and edit out all the 'for dinner we ate' and 'and then we did this' style ramblings. I'll also try and keep the rice rants down to a minimum (there will be a few).
I last left you waxing lyrical about the Taj Mahal and my time in my adopted countries capital. I was quite keen to leave Delhi by the time it came around to it. On reflection, a week was too long to spend there and of all the places I've been to it was the place I enjoyed the least. I'm pleased that I went as I don't think it would be right to spend so much time in a country and not visit the capital, the city has a lot of beautiful architecture and I would definitely recommended a stop there to anyone who finds themselves in India. I thought I was sussed when it came to Indian culture but even after three months I found the level of staring far more intense than I had ever experienced and that people were a lot more aggressive in terms of trying to get you to buy things and far more ready to try and rip you off (luckily I was sussed with the currency otherwise it would have been one heck of an expensive week). I hope this hasn't put anyone off going, the city does have a lot to offer. My only advice, ladies...I don't mean to sound like feminism never happened but if you ever go, take a chap with you. It will make for a much more pleasant stay.
So the time came around for me to leave my home of three months and proceed onto Nepal to meet the lovely Holly K. My continuing Asian adventure got off to a flying start literally as I manage to bag myself an upgrade to first class without doing anything. I wandered through to cattle class and felt a bit of an idiot saying I couldn't find my seat. I was pointed through the first class curtain and said there had been a mistake, the flight attendant said "No you're just lucky". Lucky I was indeed, it was nice to have a little bit of luxury after three months of basic living.
Look at all that leg room...*
Holly had told me to look out at the view of the Himalayas as I landed in Nepal, but my breath was literally taken away when I walked out of the airport. The city of Kathmandu surrounded by the gorgeous mountains, it certainly was the most gorgeous view from an airport I've ever seen. I loved it instantly, despite the heavy downpour we then got soaked by.
Holly and her chap B'Sal picked me up from the airport and from there Holly and I headed into Thamel for the evening. Even though its a very touristy place and a hub for all travellers whether just passing through or for the trekking I got an instantly good feel about the place. I loved the small bustley streets filled with restaurants and shops in cute chabby chic buildings. We had a nice evening eating pizza (I needed a night off the rice) and drinking a few too many mango vodkas, so much so we found it funny that our hotel locked us out and we fell asleep to Holly ranting about how rubbish 'Maid in Manhattan' is.
We then spent two days in Siritar, the village where she did her volunteering and where her boyfriend's from. B'Sal's family were kind enough to let me stay with them. After spending time there and living in home stays in India I would still say that there's no better way to see what a countries really all about than living with a local family, even if that does mean being woken up at 4am by bells and singing (there's definitely no such thing as a lie in in Nepal).
Holly wanted a new kurta which meant a walk to the next village. A walk through pretty countryside surrounded by the Himalayas sounded fine by me, however when B'Sal said 'Good luck' when I answered 'No' to the question "Do you have walking boots" I was not so up for it. Our flip flop clad walk consisted of a slide down a very steep, long hill, balancing on wafer thin beams of grass, jumping over rivers, shimmying through boggy rice fields and gripping onto reeds for dear life. Holly and I were being very British and girly about the whole affair with a lot of screaming and turning a ten minute walk into a hour long hike. I think it was a 'you had to be there moment' but never has the phrase 'think of the memories' rung so true.
Whilst Holly and B'Sal went to Chitwan for a couple of days I hung around with Holly's friend Annie who happened to be there by herself at the same time. We spent the next couple of days bumming round Thamel, shopping and eating too much paneer. I also did an Everest flight, which was well worth the 5:30am start. Again it was a beautiful part of the day to see a beautiful part of the world, some things are worth getting up for!
The very exciting time finally arrived of making my way to Thailand to meet all of my friends. Despite the fact that I was already half way there, it still took me the same length of time as them to get there due to having to get three flights with a twelve hour stop over in Delhi airport. I know it sounds a bit strange but I was kind of nervous about seeing them all again after such a long time. But after five minutes and someone commenting on how giant my bag was, it was business as usual and like I'd never been away.
We headed to Ko Samui (on yet another flight, my fourth of the day) so we'd be close to Koh Phangan for the Full Moon Party. Thanks to Mike and Graham we were able to score pretty amazing accomodation with our own private beach. A very good introduction to Thailand...
Next stop, the full moon party! Having had only a couple of Barcardi Breezers over the previous few months I was pretty worried about going from that to buckets of alcohol. The tone for the evening was set with Jon nearly falling off the boat and getting the first 'Thai Tattoo" before we even stepped onto the island. The phrase "I think this is a flip flops off situation" was coined as a result of this incident. We found ourselves a pretty good spot on mushroom mountain with a view of the whole beach so pretty much perched there for most of the night/morning. Against the advice and experience of a few people (sorry mum) I decided to try a mushroom shake, but being the wimp I am I shared one with Jon (he needed convincing that it wasn't a wimpy thing to do). It tasted pretty (read very) rank and nothing happened so 500 Baht was declared a waste of money...poor Mike had a rather different experience which I shall leave him to explain...S! I think I did pretty well considering it was my first big sesh...not that I remembered anything after mushroom mountain but I managed not to accumulate anymore scars so thats a successful night for me. I'm also sorry I wasn't with it enough to witness Nat's attempt at the rope of fire..."Well, I ran at it...but then I fell over".
After another chilled out day on the beach/being hungover in bed we headed to Phuket by bus to meet Rosie. I think we can safely say that even if your hangover didn't spread into another day (mine definitely did) that no one was really up for the bus and we couldn't be more glad to get off it. We then got a taxi (read 'random man with a pick up truck') to the airport and met Rosie, who was looking a lot more stylish that we were after a days bus journey. Flight 1 Bus 0.
Phuket was, as Rosie said "an education". I'm no prude but I was pretty shocked when we headed down the famous Bangla Road. I've always known that Thailand is famous for certain things but I couldn't believe how much the sex industry was pushed in your face. Prostitutes (and people unashamedly using them) and Ping Pong shows littered everywhere. Out of curiosity we decided to go and see a ping pong show (if you don't know what they are I'm sure Google will help you out). All I will say is that it won't cease to amaze what the female body can do. Although it was a really funny night (which Mike bore the brunt of again with an appearance on stage), it does make you wonder how desperate you must be if you have to do that for a living. We all agreed that Phuket probably wouldn't be on the stop off list again.
I also couldn't leave Phuket without mentioning the fish spa experience. Not the best idea for a ticklish person if you don't want to be seen screeching in the street...it left my India battered feet feeling pretty nice though.
Annoying interlude...theres just been a bit fat powercut and I've just lost everything I've written about Phi Phi Island *not a happy bunny*.
Our next stop was the much more picturesque island of Phi Phi. We were still feeling enthusiastic about long boats at this point so we took a trip round the bays and beaches of the island including Maya Beach where 'The Beach' was filmed. You could see the potential beauty of this island including the clearest water I have ever seen, it was just a shame that there were so many tourists and speedboats there all at the same time. I'd love to go back and see it at night. I still keep laughing at the video I took of this when we're all getting soaked on the boat, especially Nat trying to hold onto her hat. I think the love of long boats was starting to decrease at this point...
Phi Phi also introduced me to my first scuba diving experience. Initially I wasn't that up for it as I didn't see what could possibly be that good and I wasn't too happy about shelling out 70 quid for something I wasn't that bothered about (not to mention the whole breathing underwater thing which didn't massively appeal). However after a bit of persuation I thought I'd probably regret it if I didn't try it. We were lucky enough to have the whole boat to ourselves, which meant that only my friends were witness to my freak out moments. There was a point where I didn't think I'd make it off the boat and once I talked myself into the sea the fun didn't stop there. At about ten metres down my mask decided to keep filling up with water causing me to have a massive panic under the sea (not ideal). If I'd been able to speak I would have been screaming my head off but instead I settled for wild arm gestures and begging to go back up to the surface. Once I'd been suitably calmed down and my mask begun to behave itself (and I grasped the whole said breathing underwater experience) seeing all the tropical fish and turtles in their natural habitat was one of the most amazing experiences and definitely a highlight of the whole trip. So if you ever find yourself on Phi Phi then give diving a go with these guys:
Especially if you're a nervy spaz like me, I promise you'll want to do it again!
We ended our island hopping on what was supposed to be the beautiful Railay Beach, on the west side anyway. We definitely arrived on the east side. The boat (the love for long boats was at an all time low here) stopped quite a distance from the shore which meant that we had to wade through some sort of stinky substance with our luggage to find that the footpath hadn't been built yet. Thankfully it wasn't representative of the whole beach and the west side was in fact a lot nicer. Shame we only found the best beach of the whole trip on the last day!
Rosie and I fancied a change from the long boats so booked a days kayaking whilst the others did a day trip round James Bond Island. I was expecting a gentle cruise down the river until this conversation:
Tour Guide: "We will go for eight kilometers".
Me (having no perception of distance in kilometers): "Oo, is that far".
Rosie: "Its five miles".
Me: "Oh".
Despite the pain of rowing for five miles it was a really good day (minus the weird fish we got for lunch) and a different way to see the sights of the island. The afternoon turned out to be really good as well as we got to swim in a beautiful lagoon that we pretty much had to ourselves for most of the time as well. Cue a lot of amusing photos and videos on a rope swing and falling off ropes.
Abandoning the bus we took a flight back to Bangkok (Flight 2 Bus 0). I didn't think I'd really like Bangkok that much as I hadn't heard great things about it and I sort of expected it to be a bit like Phuket. However I ended up enjoying it, especially the trip to the Sky Bar on the tallest building in Bangkok where we saw the most amazing views of the city...all for the price of a 14 pound cocktail, it was worth it. We also managed to bag ourselves a pretty cheap few days stay in Chaing Mai, Northern Thailand and a few fake goodies from the market.
After saying goodbye to Mike and Graham who had to head home a few days early, we headed to the station to begin our journey north. Minus Jon (though he did pretend for a while) we were all looking forward to getting the sleeper train, I think its something you need to experience whilst travelling in Asia. Unfortunately the train got cancelled due to flooding so the only alternative was...THE BUS! (Flight 2 Bus 1). It wasn't the greatest thrill of the trip but I felt much more sorry for the couple in front of us who were on their honeymoon!
Despite the mode of transport used to get there, for me Chaing Mai was probably my favourtite place. We did a day of elephant trekking (cue more amusing photos) and white water rafting (another first for me, if I can breath under it I can certainly swim on it). Although a city, Chaing Mai was a lot more chilled out than Bangkok and Phuket. As we were driving through the countryside inbetween activities and when we were on the elephant trek, the scenary reminded me a lot of Goa's landscape so thats why I think I felt so happy there. The only downside, the most painful Thai massage of our lives. Never have I been twisted, clicked and jabbed in so many ways. My shoulders still keep making this horrible popping sound even now! Never again will I be lured with pretty stepping stones, relaxing music and tea.
The last day soon came around and Rosie and I spent the morning doing a Thai cookery course whilst Jon and Nat went to play with some tigers. I'm really glad I'd got to do it as it was always something I meant to do in India but in three months never quite managed to get around to it. Rosie and I cook up a mean Pad Thai...I definitely could have done without wiping chili on my face though.
In the afternoon we saw our old friend Bangkok airport (only one more meeting left for me) and checked into an airport hotel (via a Bangkok ghetto) before Jon, Rosie and Nat headed home and I headed to Hanoi. I normally wouldn't bore you by mentioning a trip to McDonalds but I feel its worthy of mentioning since we saw the most massive snake on the way. We only noticed it because Jon yelled at the snake and then I yelled because Jon yelled at the snake and didn't know what he was yelling at. Not your average trip to McDonalds.
I had a lovely 6:45am flight to Hanoi so I said goodbye to everyone at 3:30am. Thank you to Rosie, Nat, Jon, Mike and Graham for a fab two and a half weeks. Thailand rocks!
So here I am on the final leg of my Asian adventure. I've been in Hanoi for four days now and I start my tour of the rest of the country tomorrow. So far I'm absolutely loving Vietnam, Hanoi is a beautiful city and whilst there are tourists around theres a lot less focus on tourism itself. The locals are very friendly and are happy that you're here but theres no hassle when it comes to walking down the street or when you want to buy something (they are also able to fit me, my rucksack, my handluggage and themselves on one motorbike, impressive since I can't keep just myself upright on one). I'm also seeing my friend Amy from uni tonight who I haven't seen for three years as she happens to be in Hanoi at the same time. Bring on the last two weeks!
If you have managed to make it to the end of this epic blog post then thanks for reading and I hope its not been too long winded. I really hope I'll be able to blog again over the next couple of weeks but I'm not really sure how much free time I'll have/what the internet facilities will be.
I shall be home in sixteen days time and I really cannot wait to see all my wonderful friends and family. I've missed you all so much and although I've had the best time away I'm also really looking forward to coming home as well.
Love always from
Holly
xxx
* and yes I have been wearing those trousers seriously!